The Hôtel de la Marine is one of the great secrets of central Paris, hidden in plain sight on the north side of the Place de la Concorde. It is the eastern of the two matching palaces that the royal architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel raised between 1757 and 1774 to frame what was then the Place Louis XV — a long, luminous colonnade of paired Corinthian columns above a stone arcade, one of the defining images of French neoclassical architecture. For its first decades it was not a private mansion at all but the Garde-Meuble de la Couronne: the royal storehouse where the furniture, tapestries, arms and jewels of the crown were kept, conserved and displayed.
It was here, in September 1792, that thieves broke in and made off with a set of the crown’s coronation diamonds — among them the celebrated Regent Diamond, one of the most famous diamonds in the world, recovered about a year later and today displayed among the French crown jewels in the Louvre. After the Revolution the building was given to the navy, and for almost two centuries it served as the Ministère de la Marine — the headquarters of the French Navy — until the ministry moved out in 2015. That long naval tenure gave the palace its name, and left it one of the last great 18th-century interiors in Paris never opened to the public.
In June 2021, after a meticulous four-year restoration by the Centre des monuments nationaux, the Hôtel de la Marine finally opened its doors. Visitors can now walk the sumptuously restored apartments of the intendant of the Garde-Meuble, furnished as they were on the eve of the Revolution; the gilded state salons that look out over the Concorde; and the loggia that runs the length of the façade, giving one of the finest views in Paris — straight down the square to the obelisk, the Tuileries and the Eiffel Tower beyond. A celebrated 3D audio headset, worn throughout, turns the visit into a whispered, room-by-room story.